Garage door seals and weatherstripping
Bottom seals, retainers, perimeter weatherstripping and thresholds that close the gaps where water and drafts get in.
The short version
Garage door seal replacement means renewing the rubber or vinyl that closes the gaps around a garage door: the bottom seal and the retainer that holds it, the weatherstripping along the sides and top, and sometimes a threshold on the floor. Good seals cut drafts and keep out water, leaves and pests. Blue Hen Garage Doors replaces seals on homes and businesses across Delaware and Maryland's Eastern Shore.
Questions about your door?Call (302) 735-0046
Signs your seals need replacing
- Daylight under or along the sides of the closed door
- Water on the floor after a wind-driven rain
- Leaves, dirt or mouse droppings collecting inside the door
- A bottom seal that's torn, flattened, brittle or pulled out of its track
- Cold drafts at the bottom of an attached garage
- Side weatherstripping that's cracked, warped or pulling off the jamb
Garage door seal replacement, in detail
What seals does a garage door have?
A garage door seals in three places. At the bottom, a flexible seal that DASMA's terminology calls an astragal is held in an astragal retainer along the bottom edge of the door. Around the sides and top, a perimeter seal, often a stop molding nailed to the jambs and header, presses against the face of the closed door. On the floor, an optional threshold gives the bottom seal a raised strip to close against.
Insulated doors often add seals of their own between the sections. Haas Door, for example, builds an air infiltration joint seal into its Insulated Steel 2000 Series and fits a heavy bottom weather seal that flexes to the contour of the floor. Those joint seals are part of the door. The bottom seal, the side and top stops, and thresholds are the parts that wear and get replaced.
- Bottom seal (astragal): the flexible strip on the bottom edge of the door
- Retainer: the channel along the bottom edge that holds the bottom seal
- Perimeter seal or stop molding: the weatherstrip on the jambs and header
- Threshold: an optional raised strip on the floor for the seal to close against
Why does water get in under the garage door?
Most water gets in at the bottom, and the seal is only part of the answer. DASMA's guidance on water under sectional doors calls it a common occurrence and starts the fix with the concrete: a slab that slopes slightly toward the outside where the door rests, or a notch in the slab that the door closes into. Even a new seal will leak on a slab that pitches back toward the garage.
Wind-driven rain is its own problem. DASMA is frank that sectional doors are not leak-proof or watertight: water can drip in when a wet door opens, collect in the section joints and run to the ends, or get driven through the sides and bottom in strong wind. Delaware's winter and spring nor'easters and autumn tropical systems bring exactly that kind of rain. Enhanced perimeter seals, a heavier bottom seal and an aluminum or rubber threshold all help, DASMA says, but none of them turns a garage door into a window.
What can a new seal fix, and what can't it?
A new bottom seal fixes gaps from a torn, flattened or shrunken seal, and a new retainer fixes a seal that keeps sliding out. Near the ocean, check the retainer as well as the rubber: FEMA's coastal guidance puts the worst metal corrosion within 3,000 feet of the ocean, and a corroded retainer won't hold a new seal. What a seal can't fix is a door that doesn't close level. If light shows at one corner only, the door may be out of adjustment, the cables may be uneven, or the slab may have settled, and the fix belongs there.
Temperature plays a part as well. DASMA's sheet on thermal bowing explains that insulated doors bow toward the warmer side when there's a big temperature difference between inside and outside, which can leave a gap at the top or make the top section rub the header. A dark door facing the afternoon sun in July or a heated shop in January is the classic case, and the cure is usually adjusting the track or the header seal, or adding struts, not stacking on thicker weatherstripping.
Do seals matter for drafts, pests and heated garages?
Yes, especially on an attached garage. Haas notes that the air infiltration seals on its 2000 Series exceed the ASHRAE 90.1 standard when the door is installed with the standard bottom seal and a common vinyl door stop, which is a reminder that a door's energy numbers assume good perimeter seals. With the seals gone, the insulation inside the door can't do its job, and the house wall next to the garage feels it.
Gaps also let in leaves, dirt and the occasional mouse. If you heat a shop or the garage stays humid, watch for condensation too. DASMA says condensation on a garage door is normally not a defect but a sign of warm, humid air meeting a cold door surface, and recommends good ventilation and tight seals around the glazing and between sections.
Sources
- DASMA Technical Data Sheet 160: sectional garage door terminology (PDF)
- DASMA Technical Data Sheet 197 (PDF)
- DASMA Technical Data Sheet 1503 (PDF)
- DASMA TDS-185: thermal bowing
- DASMA Technical Data Sheet 195 (PDF)
- Haas Door: Insulated Steel 2000 Series
- FEMA Home Builder's Guide to Coastal Construction, Fact Sheet 8
- Delaware Climate Office: Delaware's climate
- International Door Association: garage door safety and maintenance
From the call to a working door

Blue Hen Garage Doors
Job steps
Call (302) 735-0046 or email Dalton@bluehengaragedoors.com with what's getting in: water, light, air, leaves or critters, and where.
We check whether the door closes level and in the right position before blaming the seal.
We look at the slab, the retainer and the side and top weatherstripping, and explain what will actually stop the leak.
We install the new seal, retainer, weatherstripping or threshold and adjust the door to close evenly on it.
We close the door and check for daylight and contact along the full width.
Questions we hear
Something else on your mind? Call (302) 735-0046 and ask.
How often should a garage door bottom seal be replaced?
There's no set schedule. Replace it when it's torn, flattened, brittle or no longer touches the floor across the full width. A simple test is to look for daylight under the closed door with the garage lights off. Check the seal during the monthly door inspection IDA recommends, and replace the retainer too if it's bent or corroded.
Will a threshold stop water from getting in?
It helps, but it isn't a cure-all. DASMA lists an aluminum or rubber threshold with an enhanced bottom seal as a big help against water, along with a slab that slopes away from the door. If water is running toward the door from the driveway or off a roof with no gutter, fix that too; DASMA calls out farm buildings with big doors under gutterless roofs as a source of severe leaks.
Why does light show at the top of my door on hot days?
That's likely thermal bowing. DASMA explains that insulated doors with foam cores adhered to the skins bow toward the warmer side when one face is much hotter than the other, and calls it an inherent trait, not a defect. It's worse on large, dark doors in direct sun. Adjusting the track or header seal, or adding horizontal struts across the back of the door, usually brings it back in line.
Do seals matter if my garage isn't heated?
Yes. Even in an unheated garage, seals keep out rain, blowing leaves, dirt and pests, and they keep water off the bottom of the door and its hardware. In an attached garage they also slow the cold air reaching the wall you share with the house. A worn bottom seal is a small part with a big job.
Related work
- Garage door tune-ups and maintenance
A loud or shaky door is asking for attention. A tune-up quiets it, catches worn parts early, and checks that the safety reverse works.
- New garage door installation
New and replacement doors with your choice of style, color, windows and insulation, measured and installed by our crew.
- Garage door repair
Every repair we handle, from a snapped spring to a door that won't close, and how we figure out what's wrong.
Where we work
Our office is in Dover. We cover Kent, New Castle and Sussex counties and Maryland's Eastern Shore.
New Castle County
Sussex County
Eastern Shore, MD
Get a free estimate
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“Thank you for giving us an opportunity to earn your business! I'll be giving you a call as soon as possible!”
- Phone
- (302) 735-0046
- Office hours
- Monday to Friday, 8am to 4:30pm
- Office
- 110 Lafferty Ln, Suite F, Dover, DE 19901
